One thin cane will not hold a plant in autumn wind
I have watched a tall plant flap on a single bamboo cane until the stem kinked at the tie. The cane was still in the ground. The plant was not. I had tied it in June, when the growth was short and the evenings were still. Autumn wind found that setup in one night. I spent the next morning cutting a snapped stem that would have held if I had used a thicker stake and a second tie.
A stake or cane has to be taller than the growth you mean to hold, thick enough not to whip, and tied so the stem can thicken. I would drive it on the windward side before the plant is tall, not after the first gale. Once the top is a sail, you are fighting leverage. A late stake shoved in beside a leaning stem often cuts roots on the way down. Then you have a plant that rocks and a hole you made.
Bamboo is cheap and it splits. Once it splits, the tie slips into the crack and saws the stem. I would pick a cane thick enough that I cannot easily bend it in one hand, and I would replace any that have started to fray at the node. Plastic-coated steel will last longer in wet soil. Wood is fine if it is a proper stake, not a painted stick from a craft pack. The painted ones rot at the soil line and then snap when you lean on them.
One thin cane is the failure I see most. A tall plant needs more than one point of support, or a thicker stake with a figure-of-eight tie that does not pinch. Soft string or a proper plant tie, not wire against bark. Wire cuts. Thin plastic tape stretches, then shreds. Check the ties after a wet week. They tighten as the stem swells, then they girdle it. I have left a tie on over winter and found a waist in the bark in March. The plant was "supported". It was being strangled.
Height matters more than colour. If the cane stops halfway up the growth, the top still sails. If it stands a metre above a short plant, you have built a lever. Match the support to this year's growth, not to the photo on the bundle.
After a blow I would walk the plot and push each stake again. Wet soil lets a cane lift. A stake that rocks needs a deeper drive or a second peg, not another loop of string around the same thin stick. If the soil is so wet the stake will not hold, wait. Wobbling it wider will not help.
I would also think about what the cane is doing besides holding a stem. A cane is a tear point for fleece. I wrote that in Horticultural fleece fails when it blows off. If you are covering a bed, a hoop or a low frame is kinder than a forest of sharp tips. If you only need a marker, a short stick is enough. Do not leave a spear at eye height on a path.
Skip canes sold with no length and no diameter. I would not leave a plant flapping on one thin cane and call it staked. Skip the decorative willow wigwam that looks done in the shop and collapses when the crop puts on weight. Skip metal spirals that are too short for the plant you actually have. A spiral is fine for a tomato in a pot. It is not a substitute for a real stake on something that will catch a south-westerly.
This is an autumn problem first. That is when the top is heavy and the wind is mean. It is also a spring job, because the stake has to go in while you can still see the soil and while the roots can still grow around it. I put the serious supports in as the growth starts, then I check ties through summer, then I walk the plot after the first real blow. September cut-back is a tool choice is the other half of this. Sometimes the right support is less top, not more string.
I would rather have a short stack of thick canes and a few proper stakes than a bundle of fifty thin ones I will throw away after one season. The thin ones take as much space. They just fail sooner.
If I later add a buy link here, it will be a paid promo.