Hose fittings leak at the washer, not the hose
I have replaced a hose when the leak was a perished washer in a click connector. The hose was fine. I coiled the new one, fitted the same plastic collar, and watched the same drip start at the tap. The fitting was a cheap collar that no longer gripped the adapter. The hose went in the shed as a spare I did not need.
UK outdoor taps are a mess of threads. Most outdoor bib taps I have fitted take a 3/4 inch BSP adapter. A lot of cheap kits are cut for a thinner indoor thread, or they arrive with a universal rubber cone that only seals if you overtighten it. Overtighten a plastic adapter and you crack it. Then you have a tap you cannot use until you find a new ring. I would buy the adapter as its own part, match it to the tap I actually have, then add the click connector. Do not assume the bag of fittings in the hose box will fit.
Click connectors leak in two places. The washer inside the female end goes hard and thin. The grip teeth on the hose tail let go, so the hose creeps out under pressure. I would unscrew the collar and look before I blame the tap. A spare pack of washers is worth more than a second hose. If the plastic body is already crazed, replace the connector. Cracked plastic will not hold a new washer. I have pressed a new washer into a crazed body. It sealed for an afternoon.
Leave a hose charged in a frost and cheap plastic splits. I will not invent a date for that. A clear, still night is enough. I would drain the hose, pop the connectors off the tap, and store them dry. A fitting left screwed to an outdoor tap all winter is the one that cracks. The metal tap survives. The plastic collar does not. Then April is a shopping trip for a part you already owned.
I would also check the stop on the spray head. If it weeps at the head, the leak is often another tiny washer, not the hose length. Run the tap, then run a dry finger around every join. A drip at the adapter is a thread or washer fault. A drip at the hose tail is a collar that never bit. A drip along the hose itself is rarer than people think. Look twice before you bin the length.
The hose still has to be the right bore for the tail. Measure it. A tail that is a bit small will push in and then blow off when you open the tap fully. A tail that is a bit large will not go in, so you will pare the hose with a knife and wreck the end. Cut the hose square. A ragged end is a leak you made.
This is the other half of A watering can still earns its hook next to a hose. A can does not need a click connector. A hose does. If the fittings are a fiddle, I use the can for the near jobs and I only unroll the hose when the run is real. That is not virtue. That is less swearing.
Skip any connector sold with no thread size and no hose diameter. Skip "universal" cones if you already know your tap is a standard outdoor thread. Skip metal-look plastic that is only a coating. When it splits you cannot mend it. Skip a spray gun with no way to take the face off. You will never reach the washer.
Summer is when the leaks show, because that is when the hose is under pressure for an hour at a time. Autumn is when I should take it apart and do not. Winter is when the split happens. I now treat the first cold week as a fittings week. Off the tap. Water out. Collars indoors. The hose can stay on a reel if it is empty. A charged hose on a reel is a split waiting for a clear night.
I keep a small tin of spare washers with the connectors. It takes no space. It has saved me more watering days than a second hose ever did.
If I later add a buy link here, it will be a paid promo.