A hasp that hangs off is usually the coach bolts
I found the shed hasp hanging by one screw after a windy October night. The padlock was still locked through the staple. The plate had pulled out of the door and was swinging on a thread of timber. I thought someone had forced it. Nobody had. The hasp had been held by four short woodscrews into the door skin. There were no nuts on the inside. I opened the door and looked at the back of the board. Four bright points. No washers. No coach bolts.
A hasp is a hinged plate that drops over a staple. The padlock goes through once the plate is home. That is the latch. Coach bolts are what keep it on the door. They go through the board. The square under the head bites so the bolt cannot spin. A washer and a nut on the back clamp the plate to the timber. Screws from the front only are a temporary hold. A tug, a slam, or a winter of wet wood and they pull. People blame the hasp. The hasp was a plate. The fixing was a set of screws in cake.
When I check a hasp I open the door and look at the back of the board. If I cannot see a nut and a washer, it is not bolted. If I can see screw tips, it will hang off. I also look at the timber around the holes. Dark, soft fibres mean the skin has already given up. New screws in those holes will walk in a week. I want the bolts through a batten or the door frame, not through the thin face alone. A plate or a penny washer on the inside spreads the clamp. A nut tight on bare ply will crush a crater and then loosen.
The staple on the frame needs the same treatment. A staple held by two screws is the first thing to come away if anyone leans on the lock. Through-bolts again, into a frame, not into cladding.
A padbolt that will not throw is usually the keep is a different latch on the same door. Alignment is that job. A shed hinge that binds is usually the pin is why the door drops. I do not move a hasp to chase a dropped leaf. I hang the door true, then I bolt the plate through. If I only replace the hasp, I have a new plate on the same empty holes.
Shed felt that lifts is usually the nails is the wet above this. Water into the top of the door softens the holes the bolts need. I would not bolt through mush and call it secure. Dry the stile, or move the hasp onto sound wood. A shed hook that actually holds a fork is why I want the door to stay shut. A hasp that hangs off is an open shed with the lock still on the staple.
Skip woodscrews as the only fixing on a hasp you will padlock. Skip coach bolts with no washer on the inside. The nut will bury itself and never hold a setting. Skip a cheap zinc hasp that flakes in one winter. The hinge pin in the hasp itself rusts and then the plate will not drop over the staple. Skip bolting through the skin because you cannot reach the inside. If you cannot get a nut on the back, that is not the place for a lock. Skip a longer screw in a blown hole. The hole is the fault.
This shows after the first autumn gale, when a door slams and the screws give, and again in late winter when the timber around the holes is soft. I now look at the back of the door when I hang tools in November. If I see screw tips behind the hasp, I put bolts through before the wet months. March is when you find the plate on the path.
I do not need a new lock because the hasp hung off. I need coach bolts, washers, and timber that can take a clamp.
If I later add a buy link here, it will be a paid promo.